Northern Exposure: Geirangerfjord

It’s summer in Norway but you wouldn’t know it. They’ve had a very cold winter so there’s lots of snow and it’s been the coldest May for 60 years. June is also cold and while that presents a challenge, it also provides great scenery too.

Unni-Marie (our host in Balestrand) advised us to take a slow scenic detour on the route to Geiranger and boy, did that pay-off. We climbed (by car) a not so difficult switchback and found a white carpet in the high plains, together with lovely waterfalls and rapids which were full and fast-flowing, thanks to the snow.

The road had a few ascents and descents and from the high points, the valleys and lakes looked great and when down below, the mountains enhanced the picture.

Along the 25km shore on the lake near Skei, hundreds were out fishing – men, women, kids and teenagers. We stopped there for lunch and then saw this thing hovering above us. UFO or drone? The latter. It hovered for a minute, then when it saw that all we were having for lunch was smoked salmon sandwiches, it scooted back to base 500m away.

Another climb and descent with magnificent views of the Nordfjord but the road was narrow and we were trying to dodge cyclists coming the other way. There was a race going on and with the gradients varying between 6-10%, it was no place for the faint-hearted. It took 30 mins to clear the field.

At Stryn, we had to choose whether to drive over the next mountain to Geiranger or head to Hellesylt and take the car ferry in through the fjord. Thanks to Unni-Marie’s weather forecast, we chose the water route and it was stunning.

View from Hellesylt

Falls at Hellesylt

Entrance to Geirangerfjord

Though it was a car ferry, they gave commentary all along the fjord. It was clear but COLD and the wind blew the plastic chairs around the deck. But us Aussies are made of stronger stuff (sometimes) and stuck it out. The pictures don’t do it justice. It was like coming into Venice by ferry.

Just holding on

The Wooer waterfall - took to the bottle when unloved

The added bonus was that we saw our hotel as we entered the ‘port’ area. We also saw 3 cruise liners there. We’d booked a room with a fjord view but were very pleasantly surprised to find it was on the top floor. The lady at the desk said we could have a lower room if we were not happy – she must have been kidding!!


We're top right, under the gable. Who'd be unhappy with that view!

The liners left and the place went quiet. One amusing aside; the Italian ship (Costa something or other but not Concordia), played “Con te partiro” – “time to say goodbye” as it left. Another Costa ship did the same the next night – must be company policy but it was enjoyable for those ashore too.

Ruth's favourite hut - serves chocolate

Fruit trees

The next day, we were determined to get the views of the fjord from on high and get there before the cruise boat arrived but the weather had turned. We headed up towards Dalsnibba (nearby peak) but with a white-out, a wet/winding road and Ruth gripping the supports for dear life, we turned back. We got views from lower down and from the other side of the fjord (the start of the Eagle Road).

Eagle Road, rising from our hotel

View from Eagle Road

A lovely Norwegian girl took pictures of us at both sites – her family was having the same problems as us. Two hours later, the weather cleared and we tried the Dalsnibba road again (we are persistent). The ship had arrived and the buses were on their way up. I’ve never been so happy to stay behind a bus as I was then. Nothing was going to run into me.

Ruth lightened her grip on the handle to snap this from inside the car

Dalsnibba was fantastic – see photos, and again we bumped into the Norwegian girl.

Plenty of snow on Dalsnibba

View down to the fjord

Finally, it was time to leave Geiranger and more switch back roads – The Eagle going out of Geiranger.

Later, the Trollstigen Road down to Åndalsnes. We had time to explore along the way.

Forlorn Aussie on walkway from gorge

How much is that doggie in the window. We should have brought Penny

But nothing prepared us for Trollstigen. It had snowed the night before and when we got there, it was 3˚, raining and misty and we had to drive down this steep narrow road with 11 hairpin bends.