After Beanies in Norway, it’s Bathers in Munich

For the last 5 weeks the temperature has been steadily rising.  We have gone from wearing beanies, gloves and thermals to as little as possible. Though I’d packed for all weathers with superb guidance from my sister, Elizabeth, we could not have foreseen both the severe cold and now the heat.  We needed to top up clothes on both weather fronts.  Climate change is definitely here – take heed Richard.

The Blogger

Munich is famous for its beer gardens so we headed to one at the shady Viktualien market where Mark enjoyed a beer and we had a bite of lunch with throngs of locals.  Do you call them Münchkins, Müncheners or is that Munichians.  We had to fight for a seat as it was packed with drinkers of all ages.  It was swelteringly hot and after a cursory visit to a museum, we did not fancy walking around so we decided to visit one of nearby lakes the next day.

At Viktualien Market

 

This was our last day in Europe, so we wanted to make it memorable.  We started early to beat the heat and the crowds.  Lake Starnberg is 25km from Munich, where the locals go to cool off and frolic in the water. They come prepared and mostly by train, bringing blow up boats, bikes and the usual picnic fare. We brought one beach towel and a scarf but luckily we did remember the bathers which were well used.  

What you need when you go for a dip!

 

This beer has my name on it

It turned out to be a gorgeous spot. Although Ludwig II (and his psychiatrist) met with a messy fate here, we more than survived the lake.

We trained back to Munich for our last night out in Europe.   What could be more fitting than a Vietnamese meal – just like home.

So to Singapore for 2 days, then Home Sweet Home

A Slow Waltz around Vienna

I know that we've been off the air for a week but it's not through disinterest and no, we weren't kidnapped by aliens or when hitch-hiking.  We've just been enchanted with Vienna.

We arrived in Vienna with less fanfare than the Norwegian gymnasts at Oslo airport but my limbs couldn’t stretch that far – what a fun impromptu show they put on. 

We had very detailed instructions on how to reach our AirBnB and followed them to a T, arriving easily to find a carpet shop at number 30 – was this our new accommodation?  Of course it wasn’t, it seems there are 2 number 30’s for some unknown reason.  Christiana warmly greeted us and led us to her/our beautiful apartment.  Immediately we knew we’d arrived in a modern day nirvana, Viennese style.  It’s a sleek, modern, spacious and bright apartment in the designer zone of Vienna called Neubauer.   Comfort we haven’t really seen since ……. I’m not sure when, but I could live here permanently.

Living area

Our courtyard

We rose pretty early (for a Rosenberg) to find our bearings and decide where to first.  Mark was frozen momentarily because there is SO very, very much to see. We decided that rushing around Vienna was not going to be on the agenda and we’d do it slowly and start by taking the temperature of the city, especially as the weather was good and we were able to extend our accommodation booking for another 2 days.

Our first impressions were that Vienna is surprisingly green and seems to be encircled by parks full of people using them for all sorts of activities.  It’s easy to find your way around with frequent trams, buses and trains - the old trams still work well. 

  
Vienna has everything – grand palaces and museums, music, coffee and culture aplenty. 

We saw three palaces – the Belvedere, the Hofburg and Schonbrunn and they were all stunning for different reasons. 

The Belvedere, for its art museum and gardens.  I wanted to see Klimt’s work in real time especially The Kiss.

No photos allowed.  You have to be sneaky

 

The Hofburg was the city palace of the Hapsburgs and it had immediate wow factor.  Their silver crockery and cutlery display was opulent to say the least – HW you are going to have to lift your game on table settings.  We put in a bid for the gold centre piece; sadly it was rejected.

HW.  This is what we now expect

And this!!

The imperial apartments were of more personal interest as they related the sad tale of Sisi (Empress Elizabeth) who hated court life and reminded us of the life of Diana with similar dietary problems.  The displays and audio-guides were fascinating.  Her husband, Franz Josef seemed a decent, hard-working emperor and had less luxurious tastes than his wife who he rightly adored. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed (inside), except in the silver collection.

It's tiring waiting for a fare

The Schonbrunn was like a mini Versailles but more appealing to us because it was less grandiose, less crowded and the Austrian audiovisual guides are the best we've encountered.  The gardens were sumptuous, vast and manicured but not to within an inch like Versailles where they measured the stems before cutting.

Some like to make a point

Others do it more quietly

Vienna and music go together like apple strudel and cream.  You cannot visit Vienna without a visit to the Opera House or a concert hall and to hear the music of Mozart is a bonus.   Mozart is the main hero but we forget that Beethoven, Schubert, Strauss and others all found fame here.  

At the Strauss monument

We managed to see a Mozart concert in the Golden Hall (of New Year’s Day concert fame), the music was sublime even if it was a performance for tourists – we loved every minute.

In costume at the Golden Hall

 

  
While on the music front, we saw The Magic Flute at the Volksopera - the 2^nd opera house of Vienna.  The performance was of course, magical.

 

A Night at the Opera

 

A room would have been cheaper for this couple

In between all the culture, there was time for walking AND CAKE !!!!

Yes I know we must try the Sachetorte but neither of us fancied it, so we sampled other delights.  We had to increase our daily exercise accordingly - well in excess of 10,000 steps, Scott.  After much experimentation we found that cake went down equally well with coffee or beer. A fascinating scientific experiment(s).

Michelle G will appreciate this display

A walking tour took us through some charming narrow streets and quaint internal courtyard behind what seemed drab facades.  Another secret world.

At Naschmarkt

As the temperature approached 30˚, it was better to be indoors feasting the eyes or finding  cooler outdoor places, away from the cobblestones. That meant checking out the Danube which really is blue in one of the main streams where no boats are allowed. The 'Old Danube’ is a pleasure lake and of course we joined in.

I told you the Danube was blue

At play on the Danube Island

The 'Old Danube'

 

Finally, my turn to drive

We left the Kunsthistorisches museum until our last day. 

Outside the museum.  Empress Marie Therese, ruled for 40 years

Klimt murals

We thought 2 hours would be enough for the paintings.  WRONG!  We started with the usual suspects of the Italian, Dutch and German masters we had previously met. 

We were becoming a little blasé until we hit the decorative art section.  Those Hapsburgs knew how to acquire quality and better still, the Viennese know how best to show it off.   

Cellini's salt 'n pepper cellar

Gem encrusted backgammon on one side and chess on the other side

We arrived soon after lunch, and found the place surprisingly empty – where were the tour groups?  We came across one poor lost American soul who said she’d been there all day and couldn’t drag herself away.  We reassured her that the exit was nearby and I felt like holding her hand and gently coaxing her out the door. Too little time to fully take in the antiquities but what we saw was good.

That left time for a very quick and late dinner before heading home to pack.  Happily, it wasn’t to be.   We were seated next to a lovely young couple (yes Tam, 40’s is young to us old fogies).  The food was delicious but the company was the cream on the cake.  And after dinner they invited us to join them at a local wine bar where Mark and the others sampled the local vino.  We made it home by 11 pm to pack, clean up a little and collapse for our last sleep in Vienna.

We’ll be back – there is so much more to see and experience in Vienna.