The Big 'O'

We reluctantly left the Lofoten Islands for the big smoke of Oslo.  My time was running out, the clock was about to strike 12 and I may turn into a wrinkled pumpkin - the big '60'.   I needn't have worried.  It's not so bad and I'm just the same sparky young person I was the day before.

Mark pulled out all the stops (as if he hasn't been doing this for the entire trip).  That evening we did celebrate, despite getting drenched on the way to the restaurant but when you turn 60 in Norway and are having a wonderful holiday, who cares.

We had two days in Oslo and it's not all that easy to fully assess a city in such a short time.  But I'll try.  The highlight (also another big 'O') was the Oslo Opera House.  Its a modern, white glass shaped building with a sloping roof where visitors are encouraged to wander and even, sunbathe - not that there was all that much sun.  The roof has held 10,000 people viewing the big screen of a live performance.  It's not just for opera but also for ballet.  The glowing white exterior by the water reminded us of the Sydney OH.

Needs some sun to show it off

 

60 is great especially when the sun comes out

Now for the inside story:-  we took a guided tour of the OOH, conducted by a current singer.  Some of the curved walls are made of oak giving a lovely warm feeling.  Back stage was immense and had hugely sophisticated equipment to coordinate all the scenery props and move the performers.  The other part of building housed rehearsal areas and we could hear them practising. It also housed teams of milliners, costume makers and set designers/producers.  Quite an army of workers. 

Cycling on the roof is not encouraged

Budding ballet dancer

The other highlight was the Nobel Peace Museum.  We listened to Malala's speech and Mark and I were blown away by her courage and intelligence.  

Then we did the rounds of the Norwegians' proud shipping history covering the Vikings, the Polar explorers and the Kon-Tiki raft.  Why is it that when we 'had' to read the 'Kon-Tiki' at school, it seemed so dull.  To see the raft and imagine spending 101 days in the Pacific Ocean brought the story to life.  Even more impressive was the polar ship, 'FRAM' which took Norwegians to both north and south poles. 

The Fram

 

Kon Tiki raft

That's how to keep a ship from falling apart

While I'm talking about extremes, one Norwegian artist has to take prominent position.  Edvard Munch - the Scream, not the prettiest of paintings but it has high impact.  Some of the sculptures in the park were also a bit quirky.

Vigelund's sculptures in Frogner Park

We also visited the local ski jump.  I would have done it had there been snow.

Holmenkollen ski jump

A last extreme is the cost of everything in Norway especially Oslo.  BUT, on leaving for the airport the kindly attendant at the train station gave us senior's discount even though Norway's senior card doesn't kick in until 67 - If you get a Senior's Card in your country, that will do.   With that saving, we can have a Sachertorte in Vienna on our next stop.

Above the Arctic Circle and in the Midnight Sun

An hour's flight from Trondheim and already we could see from the air how stunning the Lofoten islands would be.   

We flew north and if you know Melbourne is at 38˚south, then Lofoten is 68˚north and is above the Arctic Circle (don’t get pedantic here GLS). However, it has a more temperate climate than the fjord area.  Its light for 24 hrs and now the sun has finally come out; it’s a permanent fixture in the sky.  Very strange and messes with your sleep pattern unless you have sleeping masks which we do.

We are staying in the small town of Kabelvåg at a summer hostel/hotel which is run as a school for 9 months of the year (for college aged kids who ‘study’ surfing, skiing).  Surprisingly, it’s proved to be a really comfortable spot to stay with a communal kitchen to cook dinner and they serve an excellent breakfast with smoked salmon, trout and other usual breakfast fare.  Here we’ve met other travellers of varying ages from Germany, Switzerland, France and Holland and it’s lovely to share our daily tales of each other’s feats or discoveries – language issue provide hilarious moments.  

Kabelvag

Kabelvag Cathedral.  Cathedral???

Lofoten is a group of islands connected by bridge or tunnel. It’s remote with craggy mountains everywhere.  It’s full of quaint fishing villages and even has a 24 hour golf course but here, the scenery dominates everything.

Hurtigruten coastal ferry - Norwegian icon

Golf course at Hov

However, it has been over-run by the grey armies of Europe and Scandinavia, mostly travelling in large motor homes that dominate the narrow roads and creep over the centre line causing gasps of horror, mostly from me.  Mark prefers facing trucks and buses – they’re better drivers.  These homes have everything – bikes, kayaks and even a dog or two.

We’ve spent two days driving through the hamlets and one day, hiking a nearby peak. 

Heningsvaer

Surf's up at Unstad - it was but waves were tiny today

We picked a perfect day for the hike - a cool breeze and sunny skies.  The deal was that this was the sort of 'walk' suitable for children, 3km each way and up 380m – we’d done a harder walk in Balestrand.  Ha! The brochures lied. 

Mark & I walked through spongy undergrowth, mud, rocks & dirt tracks before we reached the ascent. We saw no others, just their footprints.   Once we started going up, the path quickly changed to rock hopping.  Even the goats gave up the goat.  We passed a small number of folk (mostly German) but hey, where were the kids they promised (? ! !)

Do we have to keep going?

It appeared we had taken the very steep route.  Again, Mark promised me cappuccinos and, would I like fries with that!!!!   We reached the top after about 2 hours walking and the 360˚ views were stunning. Once again thanks Kitty for loaning us the walking poles.

Svolvaer is below us

The views were worth the climb

I could see the easier path down the other side and after a bite of lunch some oohs & aahs, we took this gentler path.  There were some kids taking this rocky path but they were speedy and quickly left us behind, despite the risk of toppling.  My knees we beginning to ache but I had little choice but to walk on for the next hour. 

We were up there!!!

When we finally reached the main road neither of us was too pleased to realise it would be another 4km to walk home.  What to do?  It was a Sunday, no sign of a bus.  So we decided after much procrastination, to hitch a ride whereby, who should pick us up but the young cook from our ‘hostel’.  We’d actually spotted a few hitch hikers and decided that it was good practice to pick them up in the future – so if you hear of 2 Australians missing ‘on tour’ that’d be us.  Magnesium was on the dinner menu to cure the cramps.

On our many drives around Norway you can’t help but wonder about the effect of almost 24 hours of daylight and huge amounts of sunlight on the vegetation.  The profuse flowering at this time of year is beautiful to say the least and even the weeds look luscious and dare I say, pretty.  You can see the locals out whipper snipping and mowing often but usually on a ‘ride on’ mower.  Tulips do wonderfully in this climate with cold winds and sunny days.  

Lofoten is famous for cod fish, cod liver oil made popular in the 50’s/60’s for health benefits and mackerel.   Just about any town you drive to has racks of fish drying in the sun – up close they are smelly, ugly and scary looking things with little sharp teeth.  Some is exported to Africa as a delicacy but Mark suggested they use them for ‘voodoo’ ceremonies (I’m not gullible). 

Drying cod on huge racks

Today we drove to the end of the islands of Lofoten, to a town named Å (pron O), stopping at every turn for photo opportunities at Reine, Nusfjord and Ramberg (white beaches).  The 2 hour journey took considerably longer but this didn’t matter, we had our lunch with us and could stop just about anywhere and it was a photographer’s paradise.

Fishing cottages at Reine - expensive accommodation

White beach at Ramberg

At Å

The town’s bakery is famous for its cinnamon buns and this is where we once again, bumped into a couple who are following us all around Norway – they’ve stayed in 4 or 5 hotels we have frequented.  They were American and not ASIO agents. 

We tried to catch the midnight sun but fate was against us.  The perfect day we were too tired after our hike and the next “night” we had minor car trouble and didn’t want to be stranded in the middle of nowhere with a flight to catch the next day.  The car turned out to be a switch malfunction.  Nevertheless, the sky was bright and coloured to an impressionist’s palette.

The Lofotens have been a highlight with a little hard work to reach them, but it has been worthwhile.

Cafe by the water, Svolvaer

Now to Oslo, where I will be formally presented with my senior’s card in the hall where they hand out the Peace Prize – rather have the latter.

    

Ålesund to Trondheim

After Trollstigen, we had too little time in Åndalsnes and the weather was against us doing any of the spectacular walks they have.  There's one where, after a climb, you walk out on an exposed ramp (like at Eureka Tower).

So we rested and next day, drove to Ålesund.  It was refreshing to get to the coast, especially to find blue sky and the temperature at a 'warm' 15˚ - enough to get us to dump our bags in the hotel and set out on foot to explore.   Ålesund was rebuilt in Art Nouveau style after a fire in 1904 – like the Napier in NZ of Norway.

Canal in Ålesund

They still have phone boxes!!

That meant walking the cobble-stoned streets and climbing up to the lookout for a good view.

An easy 418 steps up

There was a cruise-ship in town and though it looked huge, we met a couple of passengers from Williamstown who said it only had 450 passengers and extolled the virtues of cruising but we’re not ready for that yet.

It was lucky that we did the walking that afternoon because the next day was cold and wet – time for a slower pace and indoor activities – the aquarium (though we had to venture outside to see the seals.

I caught one this big...

Who wants a 2kg lobster for lunch?

They start them yabbying at a young age

We also took in the Art Nouveau centre, housed in what originally was a pharmacy.  It had wonderful displays and AV presentations.  We were flabbergasted to hear that they rebuilt the town in 3 years and in a modern style.

Lovely wooden spiral staircase

Apothekary's chests

Not much to do at night for us so we played rummy in the hotel lounge.  A Dutch fellow approached Ruth, asking if he could ask an embarrassing question - "Can we entice you into a game of bridge?"  As Anne A has commented, such solicitations can be dangerous, so we politely declined, talked a little about Amsterdam and resumed our game - so far, the score is about even.  The hotel (the yellow building in one of the previous photos) was  from about 1907 and was quite quirky with exposed beams and sloping floors - but was comfortable and they provide afternoon waffles for the weary travellers.

The drive to Trondheim took most of the next day as we had numerous stops along the Atlantic Tourist road.  It’s billed by Lonely Planet as one of the best scenic drives, on par with the Great Ocean Road.  It was very scenic but as a loyal Aussie, my vote is for the GOR.

Islands are connected by these bridges

Trondheim looked interesting as it’s got a big university population and the old part reminded us of Carlton, with lots of eateries.  We had a wonderful baked casserole there.  Sadly, the baristas in Norway (and in Paris) are no match for home but with all the wonderful things to see, we can forgo the cappuccinos for the time being.

We’re now in the Lofoten Islands but more of that in the next installment.